July 19-23 Chennai (Madras)

Namascar,

After an uneventful flight, we checked into our hotel (another in the Taj line of 5 star hotels), ate a very quick lunch, and hopped onto a bus for a city tour, narrated by Dr. S. Saresh, himself a Fulbrighter who will travel to the United States in January to do research following his marriage in November. We enjoyed Dr. Saresh's knowledge and humor throughout our stay in Chennai.

Our first evening in Chennai, situated on the northeast end of the state of Tamil Nadu on the coast of the Bay of Bengal, was spent in the homes of former Fulbright exchange teachers. Five of us enjoyed a visit with the colleagues and family of Shoba Raman and feasted on a traditional Tamil dinner. Shoba, a high school chemistry teacher, had invited some of her primary teacher friends, who brought examples of their students' projects. These artistic extensions of the curriculum are completed in class so that the teachers can assist and assess the students understanding. Often when I send project assignments to be completed at home, it's mom and/or dad who do the work!

We spent an entire day at the Padma Seshadri Senior Secondary School. Each morning begins with a whole school assembly intended to focus the students on the day ahead. Every day the birthday song is sung, and selected students summarize school and world news. After observing in classrooms, lunch was provided and we were then treated to music and dance performances by very talented children. Instruction in traditional music and dance keeps the next generation connected to their heritage at a time when the winds of change are sweeping across India.

Mahabalipuram on the Bay of Bengal about 60 km south of Chennai is the site of rock temples with bas relief carvings. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the temples have stood since the 7th-9th centuries. We were amazed when our expert guide, Dr. Saresh, told of how he climbed on the ancient carved elephants as a child!

Our stay in Chennai concluded with a walking tour of the Mylapore historic neighborhood and cultural center of Chennai. Amidst the bustling vegetable stands, flower stalls and jewelry shops, the Kapaleeshwawar Temple stands in all its glory. As non-Hindus, we were permitted to walk inside the gates of the temple but not within the sanctum santorum dedicated to Shiva and other deities. The temple is believed to have been built in the 7th century. The gopuram (spire) with engraved deities has recently been painted in a host of bright colors. Some locals feel that the painting detracts from the temple's natural beauty. Either way, it is breathtaking and the center of daily life for the Hindu residents of Mylapore.

Following our temple visit, we boarded a plane for Kolkata in West Bengal. The pace is of the trip is tough at times but the chance to see so much of India as a Fulbrighter is an unparalled opportunity. I am truly thankful to be here!