Greetings,,
How does one describe the overnight train from Kolkata to Varanasi . . . hmmm . . . good question! Let’s just say it was part of the amazing enigma that is India! We were assigned to small “cabins” of 4 persons each. I negotiated for a bottom bunk; Andi and Mary took the top ones (thank you!) and Elizabeth, who wasn’t feeling well, got the other bottom bunk. We each had clean sheets wrapped in brown paper, a heavy blanket (appreciated since it was really cold), and a small pillow. We ate a boxed dinner of vegetarian Indian “wraps”. Some people read, others played cards or just chatted until after 11 p.m. Many in the group enjoyed nearly a full night’s sleep. ( I slept for about 3 hours.) We pulled into Varanasi at 7 a.m. and went to our hotel. After lunch, we met in a conference room for a lecture on “Spirituality In Varanasi”, followed by “Indian Art and Architecture in Varanasi”.
Our next scheduled event was a boat ride on the Ganges. Rather than taking the big tour bus to the ghats (stairways from the river bank to the river for bathing before worship), we took bicycle rickshaws through the narrow roadways. Our little convoy experienced the “no rules” Indian driving habits up close and personal. A cow in the middle of the road seemed unconcerned that cars, taxis, motorcycles, scooters, auto-rickshaws, and bikes heading right for it swerved just in time. I have heard that traditional rickshaws (a man pulling a cart with 1-3 passengers) have been abolished as of next year. While I enjoyed the ride with Dave, a fifth grade teacher from Gainesville, I felt really uncomfortable about having an elderly Indian man pedal me around. On uphill slopes, he walked briskly, pulling the bike along. His wiry frame indicated that he’d been doing this kind of work for many years, and I worried about how he will support himself (and family) if the bicycle rickshaws are outlawed as well.
At the ghat, a crowd of pilgrims and tourists was beginning to form to watch the nightly ritual performed by seven Hindu priests to thank and praise “Mother Ganga”, and wish her a good night. Our group cllmbed into a large boat and we were rowed out from shore for the ceremony, known as the Arati. Perform the ritual began, however, we were rowed to the next ghat, where cremations are conducted—up to 150 daily. We watched reverently as our guide, Dr. Singh, explained that Hindus believe that releasing one’s ashes in the holy Ganges stops the cycle of reincarnation and the spirit is purified of all karma. A family, led by the eldest son, brings the body to the ghat, pays a fee, and watches and prays while the body is cremated. The ashes are collected and the family releases the ashes to the river. The entire process may take 6-8 hours. There were at least 6-8 fires burning, with clusters of mourners near each fire. As Dr. Singh noted, Hindus regard death as part of the life cycle, so while there is sadness that a departed family member will be missed, there is also acceptance of death as a release of the soul from earthly pain and suffering. Because the rituals have been practiced from generation to generation, young people learn early that death is a part of life.
The following day we visited a school that infuses spiritual instruction throughout the curriculum. We arrived early in the morning to see the entire student body assembled in a beautiful courtyard, where they were led in prayer, songs, and meditation before beginning their academic instruction. The school’s founder has found that students are better able to concentrate, have improved ability to memorize subject matters, and have a heightened sense of creativity that students taught by traditional methods. The Dalai Lama has visited the school twice since it was founded. You can read more about the school’s philosophy at the website: http://www.aliceproject.org The Alice Project derives its name from Alice in Wonderland as children are invited to explore their unconscious minds.
Our stay in Varanasi included another school visit, as well as a visit to the Golden Temple. As non-Hindus, we were required to leave all bags and our schools outside of the temple and present our passports for screening. The temple was very crowded as this is the month for pilgrims to travel to Varanasi to worship Shiva here.
A sitar and tabla concert of classical Indian music topped off a busy last day in Varanasi. Current and former Fulbright scholars were invited guests, and following the concert we enjoyed a buffet dinner. It was during our conversations with the Indian Fulbrighters that we realized again not only how honored we were to be in such esteemed company, but also that our incredible experience in India was coming to an end.
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