Jaipur, capital of the state of Rajasthan, is known as the “Pink City”. There are various theories about the derivation of the “pink” nickname, from the terracotta color of the old city walls (Jaipur was built in 1727 as a “planned” city, with 9 sectors dividing the population according to occupation and caste) to the notion popularized by the British that pink is the color of hospitality, and thus the buildings were painted pink for the visit in 1876 by Edward VII. The city is now painted pink every 10 years; in 2000 the fresh paint corresponded to a visit by former President Clinton.
Our hotel in Jaipur, the Jai Palace, is my absolute favorite, and it was my turn to have a room all to myself. The building was surrounded by gardens. a life-size chess board, and a gorgeous pool. The interior décor is delightful –traditional Rajasthani themes in bright colors and modern motifs. In each of the hotels that we’ve enjoyed, the floral arrangements have been exquisite, and the Jai Palace was no exception. On our last evening there, the dining room and adjacent garden area were booked for a birthday party. Guests in stunning saris enjoyed an outdoor buffet under a billowy white tent. It was really fun to have a close-up glimpse of another aspect of the modern middle-class Indian lifestyle.
In Jaipur we had the opportunity to visit a school devoted to the education of students with disabilities. The accomplishments of the school and its students are quite impressive. It was also the first building we saw India with wheelchair ramps. The mission of PRAYAS is total inclusion of disabled and socially disadvantaged students into the mainstream of educational opportunity.
Despite an early morning rain, our group enjoyed an elephant ride at the City Palace and again marveled at the architecture, a synthesis of Rajasthani and Mughal styles. Truly marvelous is the Jantar Mantar, one of Maharaja Jai Singh II’s five observatories located in various parts of the country. Constructed with stone and marble, an array of astronomical instruments were precisely and scientifically designed and are nearly 100% accurate according to today’s computer-based readings. A large contingent of (predominantly male) university students was visiting at the same time, and like us, were undeterred by the rain that had again begun to fall.
An entire page of the local newspaper was devoted to photos of parks and the countryside surrounding “The Pink City”. Rajasthan is arid, a desert state in this country of diverse ecosystems. However, thanks to the monsoon rains, the predominant colors of Jaipur during our stay were myriad shades of green.
We concluded our visit to Jaipur with an ethnic Rajasthani dinner at Chokhi Dhani Village, and for some, a camel ride!
Friday, August 6, 2010
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
July 31-August 2 Agra
Chelsea Clinton’s wedding was front page news in all of the papers on August 2nd! The Hindustan Times carried another more detailed story inside the front section as well. President Clinton made several trips to India during his term of office.
Turns out it’s easier to go back to Delhi from Varanasi, and then on to Agra, so that’s what we did. We flew to Delhi, spent the night at our “home” hotel, the Taj Mansingh (very elegant) and took the train on Sunday, August 1st to Agra. After lunch at the Agra hotel, we regrouped and set out in a bus our first site visit, Fatehpur Sikri. Built during the second half of the 16th century by Emperor Akbar, Fatehpur Sikri was once the capital of the Mughal Empire. One of the largest mosques in India, the Jama Masjid is located there. Because we visited on a Sunday, the site was crowded with families enjoying a breezy afternoon after the morning rains. The mosque too was thronged with worshippers and there was a festive spirit all around.
We set our alarm clocks for an early start on a day we’d been anticipating for weeks. In order to avoid both the crowds and the heat, we met in the lobby at 5:30 a.m. and set off for that wonder of wonders, the Taj Mahal. It took 22 years to build this tomb, a monument to love. The Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan authorized the building of the Taj for his favorite queen, Mumtaz, after she died following the birth of their fourteenth child. The white marble is inlayed with intricate colorful designs made from semi-precious stones. I purchased a book with stunning photographs of the Taj Mahal and close-ups of the detailed engraving because I know my own photos just won’t begin to capture the beauty of this place.
From the Agra Fort, we were able to get more photos of the Taj Mahal from a distance. In these shots, the white marble gleams next to the green trees. Emperor Akbar commissioned the building of this structure as well, and it was here that his grandson, Shah Jihan, spent the last eight years of his life, imprisoned in a War of Succession by his third son. From the terraced building where he was confined, Shah Jihan could sit and stare at the Taj Mihal and think of his beloved Mumtaz.
As I’m writing this we’re on the train bound for Jaipur, the last city on our itinerary. Everyone is starting to think of home and the responsibilities that await each of us upon our return. Kathleen, Principal of a charter school in Harlem, was on the phone today discussing test scores and teacher bonuses. When we return to our hometowns, there is a range of one day to three weeks before we’ll all be back in school. I’m looking forward to seeing my family and sleeping in my own bed. Six weeks of travel in India has made all of us appreciate the advantages we often take for granted.
When we disembarked from the bus at the train station this afternoon, we were each handed a boxed dinner of sandwiches, fruit, and other Indian food delights. As we walked to the train platform, we were approached by children begging for food. At least five of us immediately handed over our meals to the children, although we’d been cautioned not to do this. We’ve read in the newspapers how rapidly the median income is rising in India, but for the poorest of the poor, begging at places frequented by tourists is still the only life they know.
Turns out it’s easier to go back to Delhi from Varanasi, and then on to Agra, so that’s what we did. We flew to Delhi, spent the night at our “home” hotel, the Taj Mansingh (very elegant) and took the train on Sunday, August 1st to Agra. After lunch at the Agra hotel, we regrouped and set out in a bus our first site visit, Fatehpur Sikri. Built during the second half of the 16th century by Emperor Akbar, Fatehpur Sikri was once the capital of the Mughal Empire. One of the largest mosques in India, the Jama Masjid is located there. Because we visited on a Sunday, the site was crowded with families enjoying a breezy afternoon after the morning rains. The mosque too was thronged with worshippers and there was a festive spirit all around.
We set our alarm clocks for an early start on a day we’d been anticipating for weeks. In order to avoid both the crowds and the heat, we met in the lobby at 5:30 a.m. and set off for that wonder of wonders, the Taj Mahal. It took 22 years to build this tomb, a monument to love. The Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan authorized the building of the Taj for his favorite queen, Mumtaz, after she died following the birth of their fourteenth child. The white marble is inlayed with intricate colorful designs made from semi-precious stones. I purchased a book with stunning photographs of the Taj Mahal and close-ups of the detailed engraving because I know my own photos just won’t begin to capture the beauty of this place.
From the Agra Fort, we were able to get more photos of the Taj Mahal from a distance. In these shots, the white marble gleams next to the green trees. Emperor Akbar commissioned the building of this structure as well, and it was here that his grandson, Shah Jihan, spent the last eight years of his life, imprisoned in a War of Succession by his third son. From the terraced building where he was confined, Shah Jihan could sit and stare at the Taj Mihal and think of his beloved Mumtaz.
As I’m writing this we’re on the train bound for Jaipur, the last city on our itinerary. Everyone is starting to think of home and the responsibilities that await each of us upon our return. Kathleen, Principal of a charter school in Harlem, was on the phone today discussing test scores and teacher bonuses. When we return to our hometowns, there is a range of one day to three weeks before we’ll all be back in school. I’m looking forward to seeing my family and sleeping in my own bed. Six weeks of travel in India has made all of us appreciate the advantages we often take for granted.
When we disembarked from the bus at the train station this afternoon, we were each handed a boxed dinner of sandwiches, fruit, and other Indian food delights. As we walked to the train platform, we were approached by children begging for food. At least five of us immediately handed over our meals to the children, although we’d been cautioned not to do this. We’ve read in the newspapers how rapidly the median income is rising in India, but for the poorest of the poor, begging at places frequented by tourists is still the only life they know.
Sunday, August 1, 2010
July 27-31 Varanasi (Benares)
Greetings,,
How does one describe the overnight train from Kolkata to Varanasi . . . hmmm . . . good question! Let’s just say it was part of the amazing enigma that is India! We were assigned to small “cabins” of 4 persons each. I negotiated for a bottom bunk; Andi and Mary took the top ones (thank you!) and Elizabeth, who wasn’t feeling well, got the other bottom bunk. We each had clean sheets wrapped in brown paper, a heavy blanket (appreciated since it was really cold), and a small pillow. We ate a boxed dinner of vegetarian Indian “wraps”. Some people read, others played cards or just chatted until after 11 p.m. Many in the group enjoyed nearly a full night’s sleep. ( I slept for about 3 hours.) We pulled into Varanasi at 7 a.m. and went to our hotel. After lunch, we met in a conference room for a lecture on “Spirituality In Varanasi”, followed by “Indian Art and Architecture in Varanasi”.
Our next scheduled event was a boat ride on the Ganges. Rather than taking the big tour bus to the ghats (stairways from the river bank to the river for bathing before worship), we took bicycle rickshaws through the narrow roadways. Our little convoy experienced the “no rules” Indian driving habits up close and personal. A cow in the middle of the road seemed unconcerned that cars, taxis, motorcycles, scooters, auto-rickshaws, and bikes heading right for it swerved just in time. I have heard that traditional rickshaws (a man pulling a cart with 1-3 passengers) have been abolished as of next year. While I enjoyed the ride with Dave, a fifth grade teacher from Gainesville, I felt really uncomfortable about having an elderly Indian man pedal me around. On uphill slopes, he walked briskly, pulling the bike along. His wiry frame indicated that he’d been doing this kind of work for many years, and I worried about how he will support himself (and family) if the bicycle rickshaws are outlawed as well.
At the ghat, a crowd of pilgrims and tourists was beginning to form to watch the nightly ritual performed by seven Hindu priests to thank and praise “Mother Ganga”, and wish her a good night. Our group cllmbed into a large boat and we were rowed out from shore for the ceremony, known as the Arati. Perform the ritual began, however, we were rowed to the next ghat, where cremations are conducted—up to 150 daily. We watched reverently as our guide, Dr. Singh, explained that Hindus believe that releasing one’s ashes in the holy Ganges stops the cycle of reincarnation and the spirit is purified of all karma. A family, led by the eldest son, brings the body to the ghat, pays a fee, and watches and prays while the body is cremated. The ashes are collected and the family releases the ashes to the river. The entire process may take 6-8 hours. There were at least 6-8 fires burning, with clusters of mourners near each fire. As Dr. Singh noted, Hindus regard death as part of the life cycle, so while there is sadness that a departed family member will be missed, there is also acceptance of death as a release of the soul from earthly pain and suffering. Because the rituals have been practiced from generation to generation, young people learn early that death is a part of life.
The following day we visited a school that infuses spiritual instruction throughout the curriculum. We arrived early in the morning to see the entire student body assembled in a beautiful courtyard, where they were led in prayer, songs, and meditation before beginning their academic instruction. The school’s founder has found that students are better able to concentrate, have improved ability to memorize subject matters, and have a heightened sense of creativity that students taught by traditional methods. The Dalai Lama has visited the school twice since it was founded. You can read more about the school’s philosophy at the website: http://www.aliceproject.org The Alice Project derives its name from Alice in Wonderland as children are invited to explore their unconscious minds.
Our stay in Varanasi included another school visit, as well as a visit to the Golden Temple. As non-Hindus, we were required to leave all bags and our schools outside of the temple and present our passports for screening. The temple was very crowded as this is the month for pilgrims to travel to Varanasi to worship Shiva here.
A sitar and tabla concert of classical Indian music topped off a busy last day in Varanasi. Current and former Fulbright scholars were invited guests, and following the concert we enjoyed a buffet dinner. It was during our conversations with the Indian Fulbrighters that we realized again not only how honored we were to be in such esteemed company, but also that our incredible experience in India was coming to an end.
How does one describe the overnight train from Kolkata to Varanasi . . . hmmm . . . good question! Let’s just say it was part of the amazing enigma that is India! We were assigned to small “cabins” of 4 persons each. I negotiated for a bottom bunk; Andi and Mary took the top ones (thank you!) and Elizabeth, who wasn’t feeling well, got the other bottom bunk. We each had clean sheets wrapped in brown paper, a heavy blanket (appreciated since it was really cold), and a small pillow. We ate a boxed dinner of vegetarian Indian “wraps”. Some people read, others played cards or just chatted until after 11 p.m. Many in the group enjoyed nearly a full night’s sleep. ( I slept for about 3 hours.) We pulled into Varanasi at 7 a.m. and went to our hotel. After lunch, we met in a conference room for a lecture on “Spirituality In Varanasi”, followed by “Indian Art and Architecture in Varanasi”.
Our next scheduled event was a boat ride on the Ganges. Rather than taking the big tour bus to the ghats (stairways from the river bank to the river for bathing before worship), we took bicycle rickshaws through the narrow roadways. Our little convoy experienced the “no rules” Indian driving habits up close and personal. A cow in the middle of the road seemed unconcerned that cars, taxis, motorcycles, scooters, auto-rickshaws, and bikes heading right for it swerved just in time. I have heard that traditional rickshaws (a man pulling a cart with 1-3 passengers) have been abolished as of next year. While I enjoyed the ride with Dave, a fifth grade teacher from Gainesville, I felt really uncomfortable about having an elderly Indian man pedal me around. On uphill slopes, he walked briskly, pulling the bike along. His wiry frame indicated that he’d been doing this kind of work for many years, and I worried about how he will support himself (and family) if the bicycle rickshaws are outlawed as well.
At the ghat, a crowd of pilgrims and tourists was beginning to form to watch the nightly ritual performed by seven Hindu priests to thank and praise “Mother Ganga”, and wish her a good night. Our group cllmbed into a large boat and we were rowed out from shore for the ceremony, known as the Arati. Perform the ritual began, however, we were rowed to the next ghat, where cremations are conducted—up to 150 daily. We watched reverently as our guide, Dr. Singh, explained that Hindus believe that releasing one’s ashes in the holy Ganges stops the cycle of reincarnation and the spirit is purified of all karma. A family, led by the eldest son, brings the body to the ghat, pays a fee, and watches and prays while the body is cremated. The ashes are collected and the family releases the ashes to the river. The entire process may take 6-8 hours. There were at least 6-8 fires burning, with clusters of mourners near each fire. As Dr. Singh noted, Hindus regard death as part of the life cycle, so while there is sadness that a departed family member will be missed, there is also acceptance of death as a release of the soul from earthly pain and suffering. Because the rituals have been practiced from generation to generation, young people learn early that death is a part of life.
The following day we visited a school that infuses spiritual instruction throughout the curriculum. We arrived early in the morning to see the entire student body assembled in a beautiful courtyard, where they were led in prayer, songs, and meditation before beginning their academic instruction. The school’s founder has found that students are better able to concentrate, have improved ability to memorize subject matters, and have a heightened sense of creativity that students taught by traditional methods. The Dalai Lama has visited the school twice since it was founded. You can read more about the school’s philosophy at the website: http://www.aliceproject.org The Alice Project derives its name from Alice in Wonderland as children are invited to explore their unconscious minds.
Our stay in Varanasi included another school visit, as well as a visit to the Golden Temple. As non-Hindus, we were required to leave all bags and our schools outside of the temple and present our passports for screening. The temple was very crowded as this is the month for pilgrims to travel to Varanasi to worship Shiva here.
A sitar and tabla concert of classical Indian music topped off a busy last day in Varanasi. Current and former Fulbright scholars were invited guests, and following the concert we enjoyed a buffet dinner. It was during our conversations with the Indian Fulbrighters that we realized again not only how honored we were to be in such esteemed company, but also that our incredible experience in India was coming to an end.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)